Are pearls expensive and what does it depend on?

Timeless, elegant, and noble… That is exactly what pearls are. Always associated with wealth, as a symbol of love and purity. Pearl jewelry is probably the oldest known to humankind. A necklace found in Egypt dates back to around 2500 BCE. In antiquity, pearls were extremely valuable gems that only a select few could afford.

Fishing out a fine pearl suitable for jewelry was next to a miracle. And so it remained. Keep in mind that only one mussel in many thousands produces such a pearl. Finding it was therefore highly time-consuming and dangerous. Unsurprisingly, pearls were valued more than gold.

Only over time, thanks to mussel farming and human-initiated pearl growth, did their price decrease enough that today anyone can afford pearls.

Naturally, wild pearls can still be purchased at auction houses and similar venues, mainly as antique and collectible items. However, their prices are exceptionally high, reaching up to millions.

Despite the greater availability of cultured pearls on the market, they can still cost a great deal – their price increases exponentially with quality. Unlike gemstones, pearls undergo no mechanical processing. Exactly as a pearl is harvested, it arrives at the jeweler in that same state. Only the final color is influenced.

What affects the price of pearls?

Type of pearls

There are two main types of pearls on the market: freshwater and saltwater (marine). Freshwater pearls are cultivated in lakes and rivers, making their farming considerably easier. Furthermore, the yield of pearls per mussel is higher. For example, a single freshwater mussel can yield up to several dozen pearls, whereas a saltwater oyster produces just one. This is one of the reasons why freshwater pearls are more affordable than saltwater ones.

From left: freshwater pearl, Akoya, Tahiti, and South Sea

In turn, saltwater pearls are divided into three main species: Akoya pearls, Tahitian pearls, and South Sea pearls.

Akoya pearls are characterized by their uniform shape and very intense luster.

Tahitian pearls originate from French Polynesia, defined by their dark body colors (ranging from silver to graphite, green, or brown).

South Sea pearls (pearls of the South Seas) are the largest cultured pearls in the world. The most sought-after among them are those with a golden hue, which command the highest prices among all pearls.

Pearl shape

Although pearls are primarily associated with a round shape, their diversity in nature is much broader. Besides round pearls, there are oval (rice) or teardrop-shaped pearls, semi-round (¾ round) pearls—having one round side and one flat side—and baroque pearls (all other irregular shapes).

The most valuable are perfectly round pearls; the closer their shape is to a true sphere, the higher the price. Such pearls are most frequently selected for necklaces and bracelets. Meanwhile, for gold earrings, pendants, or rings, the finest individual specimens are used.

Due to the cost of round pearls, they are rarely set in silver jewelry. When buying silver jewelry, it is worth checking whether the pearl is genuine or imitation.

Overview of various pearl shapes – from left: baroque, oval, button, round

Second in value are oval (teardrop) pearls, which look best in dangling earrings and pendants. Smaller ones (up to approx. 9.0 mm) are often used in silver designs. Perfectly matched teardrop pearls in terms of shape can sometimes cost even more than round pearls.

Semi-round (¾ round) pearls, due to their lower price point, are the most popular choice across silver jewelry collections.

Baroque pearls are usually the most affordable, and their varied forms serve as inspiration for artisan jewelers. Because they often take on imaginative shapes, a skilled jeweler can transform them into a true masterpiece. Such a pearl combined with gold and gemstones can become highly valuable. Baroque pearls are most commonly used for pendants and brooches, less frequently for earrings.

Pearl size

Size is measured in millimeters and significantly impacts price. Pearls are sorted in 0.5 mm increments. Freshwater pearls range from as small as 1 mm to around 15 mm. In smaller sizes, price differences are minor—around 20-30%. However, from about 9.0 mm upward, these price jumps become substantial.

Akoya pearls range from 2 mm to approx. 10 mm. Above 8 mm, expect a sharp increase in value, often doubling.

Larger sizes occur in Tahitian and South Sea pearls. Tahitian pearls generally range from 8 to 18 mm, with reasonably accessible prices up to around 12 mm. South Sea pearls most commonly range between 10 and 20 mm. Naturally, individual pearls can be even larger. However, finding a full strand of such large pearls on the market is rare. Cultivating large pearls requires significantly more time, which carries a high risk of deformation and surface imperfections. This contributes to their rarity and greatly influences the price.

Pearl surface quality

Another evaluation criterion is the pearl's surface quality. Since a pearl is a natural creation of a living organism, it is rarely flawless. Blemishes occur naturally on its surface, making it easy to distinguish genuine pearls from counterfeits, which are usually completely smooth.

Surface features may include growth marks, pits, minor scratches, or color variations. Naturally, the fewer blemishes, the more expensive the pearl. For completely smooth pearls with zero blemishes, prices can be very high.

Gold chain with Tahitian pearl from the photo – link

Because a pearl must be mounted in jewelry—which involves drilling a hole—a pearl with a single blemish can be valued equally to a flawless one. Drilling at the site of the imperfection conceals it, resulting in an outwardly perfect pearl. This applies primarily to round pearls, as mounting position does not alter their symmetrical presentation. For other shapes, drilling is restricted to specific locations.

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Pearl luster

Luster is a vital characteristic of a pearl that heavily influences its value. It is often overlooked or neglected when comparing pearls, yet it strongly affects both appearance and price.

High-luster pearl necklace from the photo – link

The price difference between pearls with weak or dull luster and those with intense, mirror-like luster can be several-fold. It is worth paying close attention to this detail. The stronger the luster, the clearer the reflection on the pearl's surface. Evaluating luster can be challenging and is best done by comparing pearl strands side by side. Luster assessment is also somewhat subjective, making appraisal nuanced.

Pearl color

When determining pearl color, two elements are considered: the primary body color (e.g., white, dark, gray) and the overtone (the subtle tint or sheen).

Because color is the main characteristic that can be artificially altered, color in freshwater pearls does not drastically impact value. Freshwater pearls are frequently dyed or bleached to white. The most natural freshwater colors are cream and peach/pink.

Saltwater pearls are rarely color-treated. The most valuable Akoya pearls are white with a pink overtone. Tahitian pearls excel in peacock green shades, while South Sea pearls reach their pinnacle in rich golden hues.

Pearl matching

Matching pearls to one another plays a huge role in evaluating pearl jewelry. Valuable earrings or necklaces feature meticulously matched pearls.

Every pearl is unique like a fingerprint, making two identical pearls virtually impossible to find. Nevertheless, in premium jewelry, pearls must appear harmonious. This matching process is labor-intensive, but it significantly elevates the piece's value and prestige.

In earrings, pearls should be practically identical. In necklaces and bracelets, color and shape should match closely. Graduated sizing is acceptable, where pearls near the clasp are slightly smaller than those at the center. Consequently, a strand of uniform, well-matched pearls is far more valuable than the sum of its individual unselected pearls.

That is why at apearl we place such high emphasis on careful pearl matching. In our workshop, this step receives the most meticulous attention, and our clients confirm that the result is well worth the effort.

Nacre thickness

A pearl's durability increases with the thickness of its nacre. Classic non-beaded freshwater pearls excel here, as they consist almost entirely of solid nacre, with the initiating tissue nucleus being no larger than a grain of sand.

There are also beaded freshwater pearls on the market (such as Edison pearls). Cultivating these in large sizes requires immense precision, making them command higher market values. A reputable seller should clearly state the type of pearls offered. At apearl, all classic freshwater pearls are non-beaded unless explicitly indicated otherwise in the product description.

Conversely, all cultured saltwater pearls are beaded (nucleated), meaning nacre thickness varies. For Akoya pearls, a nacre thickness of 0.3 mm to 0.7 mm is considered high quality. For fine Tahitian and South Sea pearls, a nacre thickness of at least 2 mm is expected.

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Summary

Pearl evaluation encompasses a wide range of factors. While individual pearls can be purchased at accessible prices, a necklace of uniform, well-matched pearls free of blemishes and exhibiting brilliant luster will cost from several hundred currency units for smaller sizes up to thousands for larger gems.

We believe every woman deserves genuine pearls. As a direct importer and jewelry manufacturer, we offer pearls at highly attractive prices. We invite you to explore our silver stud earrings and gold earrings.

Visit our online shop and discover our full range of premium pearl jewelry.